Traveling in Colombia

           From my personal experience reading through articles of traveling could be exciting and dull at the same time. Hence I promise you, my reader, that I won't take more than 10 minutes of your life in order to describe the lethargic, but colorful life of provincial pueblo.

        My first introduction to countryside of Colombia happened to be in Puente Nacional in department Santander, small colonial town that until today vigilantly guards its history on cobblestone streets, in people's lives, and in ancient traditions. I was lucky to visit this place on the weekend of celebration of Comunero Rebellion which I will describe in details a little later. Before the trip I've heard such words as 'campo' and 'granja' closely associated with province or countryside, although I didn't really know the meaning behind it. The simple 'farm' translation doesn't depict whole palette of colors, aromas, and experiences that hide behind these Spanish words. I've spent only 2 days here, so let me share with you excerpts from my diary.

Row sugarcane, kids, and press

       "...Saturday has started with radiant, blinding sun that welcomed me; who could guess that the same evening will bring vigorous rain that seemed like the one of the Noah times. During the day I explored rustic farm that located 20 minutes away of the town with road that can be best described as "of the cliff, only in one direction, jungle style, pavement-less safari drive". Surrounded by surreal greenery, I got my hands wet washing horses, learning about growing/treating them and national horse-riding pride 'paso fino', which means 'fine step'. I was lucky(?) to experience it first hand or rather ... on my buttocks. It is a special breed of horse (brought by Spaniards and evolved in its own unique way with time, thanks to mountainous interior of the country) and also it is a specific way of riding horse. In order to explain it, I need help from Wikipedia page, that describes it as "...paso fino is a collected gait with rapid footfalls that covers as little ground as possible." To imagine it, you should see youtube video, then it'll be more evident why I've regretted getting on saddle and putting myself a string away from falling. Not to mention that there were hundreds, literally hundreds of horse riders not fully sober to say the least. Half a day whole town was parading on the streets and later in the evening testing each other in skills - drinking, speaking on the phone, smoking, yelling to other riders and doing it all while on the running horses. And yes, as I mentioned earlier, it seemed like gods were angry with human festivities and were flushing down all water reserves, which didn't bother locals at all, who were warming up with aguardiente (cheap strong alcohol). Enough to say that after 15 minutes in desperate grasps for my life, wet till my toes, I was happy to land the mother Earth and stay on my two legs.

       On Sunday people who survived previous night were celebrating Comunero Revolt. It was a rebellion by locals in reaction to imposed taxes from Spain in 1781. I won't bore you with history dates and names, leaving it at that and rather share Colombian love for panela - a sugarcane sweetness that is the national pride and used in coffees, teas, baked goods, as a candy and in many other ways. The production of the panela hasn't changed over the centuries - big circular presses ground the row sugarcane into brown juice, which is being boiled in big pots till liquid thickens, then curious crowd can dip sugarcane sticks into the pot and enjoy the sweetness. The final product takes shape of putty. The joy of the people can be seen in their wide smiles, laughter and kid's indulgence with panela.

Transformation of panela

      On the second half of the day I picked, roasted, grounded, and brewed coffee beans. Yes, I did it all myself, yes, in the heart of Colombia! Beside this incredible experience I've seen greenery of the mounts, saw fruits grown in their natural habitat, got stuck in the middle of the night in SUV carrying two horses in the trailer, got all over in mud, but pulled that damned trailer (thankfully without horses) back to the farm, and overall had very relaxing, informative, exhausting experience in 'granja'. Yes, now, I have an idea what locals mean by 'campo' and I hope you do too..."

Authentic way of roasting coffee